The classics never go out of style.
Naughty Hildegard ESB is not a new beer to me. Instead, it's an old favourite from earlier days of my foray into craft beer. A friend recommended it to me over a decade ago, advising that it was a decidedly North American take on English Special Bitter. And that it is!
Appearance: Naughty Hildegard pours a beautiful copper color that brings to mind classic American craft beers like strong pale ales, red ales and IPAs. I drank this from a classic Spiegelau PA glass. White foam pours thick but ebbs as you drink, leaving just a touch of lacing.
Aroma: It smells like fruitcake. In a good way! There's a touch of dessert-like sweetness coupled with the scent of dried fruit. Underneath all of that is a subtle hint of resinous pine.
Taste: This beer is sublimely balanced in the old school way with a solid malt foundation and decidedly West Coast hop profile. Caramel malt adds colour and sweetness without overpowering the bitterness and fruit flavours of Amarillo, Columbus and Mosaic hops. Delicious.
Mouthfeel: Perfect. It has just the right amount of body.
Overall: This is not a modern beer. It is an iconic Canadian interpretation of a North American variation of a British standard. This is the kind of beer that exemplified the West Coast scene ten to fifteen years ago. Those of us whose craft beer experience predates New England IPA are fortunate that Driftwood continues to brew and widely distribute this anachronistic ale.
Rating: 4 out of 5